By Rick Karlin

Contributing Writer

Opera
1301 S. Wabash
(312) 461-0161
 

Try as I might to enjoy classical singing, all that comes to mind when I think of opera is Bugs Bunny singing an aria from “The Marriage of Figaro.”

But if you, like me, think that Renata Tibaldi is an Italian car, there’s an Opera on the near south side that you’ll be happy to get to know. The pan-Asian restaurant has been around for a couple of years, but new Executive Chef Paul Wildermuth has taken the menu and tweaked it to showcase some of his favorite dishes.

Thankfully the restaurant management didn’t redo the entire menu, as it was damn good to begin with. Some old favorites, such as the Sichuan noodle salad, remain; the combination of wheat noodles, spicy peanut sauce and herbs still offers the perfect contrast of fire and creaminess. The huge portion is a bargain at $6 and is perfect for sharing as an appetizer or as the basis for a light meal.

Other winners include the lobster spring roll, chicken soong (steamed breast meat coated with plum sauce and served with lettuce leaves for wrapping), crab cake and moo shu (duck or vegetarian). The Cantonese shellfish collection is the highest priced appetizer ($14) and is not as successful as the rest, lacking in flavor and variety.

When ordering your entrée, be certain to add a side order of the Sichuan dry fried green beans (usually served with ground pork, but the kitchen will also prepare a vegetarian version if requested). The sweet soy base and crisp beans make it a joy to eat your vegetables. And for vegans, there’s an entirely separate menu.

Chicken and forest mushroom stir-fry pairs up moist chunks of breast meat with a variety of fungi and slivers of asparagus with a mirin-like glaze. Black prawns served atop Singapore (translucent) noodles are a winner as well. The Madras curry sauce perfectly augments the jumbo shrimp and the addition of lump crab and slices of chewy Chinese sausage adds to the pleasing range of flavors and textures.

On the night of our visit, Hunan beef was one of the specials and, if it’s available, should be sampled. Tender slices of steak and scallions arrived lightly bathed in a sauce that combined sweet, salty and peppery flavors perfectly.

Dessert options offer a nice variety, from heavy-duty chocolate fixes to lighter fruit-based fare. The wine list is varied, with some good by the glass options and traditional as well as exotic cocktails. Service is attentive, friendly and well versed in the menu offerings. A team effort is in use, which can occasionally make for some minor slip-ups, with dishes delivered to the wrong diner or items forgotten. But our 15-year-old nephew dined with us and declared it the best meal he’d ever eaten. Can’t say I disagree.

The Bottom Line: A three-course meal with a drink will cost about $60 a person, tax and tip included. On Tuesday nights, there’s a special deal available—three courses, chosen from the regular menu,—that runs you only $25.

 

Tablehopping: On Friday, July 27th, Le Titi de Paris, 1015 West Dundee Rd. in Arlington Heights, hosts a six-course dinner in the continuing Gastronomique Regional Wine Dinner Series. This month, the region of Alsace is featured. Dinner begins at 7:30pm and costs $78 per person, excluding tax and gratuity. For reservations please call Susan Maddox at (847) 506-0222 or visit www.letitideparis.com for more information.

Uptown can add two more restaurants to its growing roster. Fat Cat, 4840 N. Broadway, opened just north of Crew and the Uptown Theater. From the same folks who own Silver Cloud in Bucktown, the new venue is bright and airy and serves comfort food and pub fare. Try the fried mac and cheese strips for true decadence. They’re still ironing out the kinks but a full review will be forthcoming.

You have to be pretty gutsy to open a new place where two others have failed. The owners of the new Italian restaurant at 5101 N. Clark must like to court danger, not only did they open on Friday the 13th, they named the new place Il Fiasco.