Ai
358 W. Ontario
(312) 335-9888
aichicago.us

By Rick Karlin

Contributing writer

To paraphrase the old vaudeville song, “If you knew sushi like I know sushi. Oh! Oh! What a gill…” The first few times I had sushi, I thought, “Well, that’s a nice appetizer, but where’s the meal?”

My appreciation for the Japanese favorite has grown exponentially throughout the years. It’s now at the point that if I don’t have sushi at least once a week, I start to go into withdrawal. I even have my own little sushi mat and dried nori in the cupboard. I’m okay making a basic maki roll, but to get the really exotic stuff I go out.

One of the nice things about sushi is that you can go as downscale as you’re willing to dare (I’ve never gotten sick from sushi, no matter where I’ve eaten it) or, for a special treat, try out an elegant upscale place like Ai.  One step inside this tucked away River North gem, located just past the entrance to the Ontario feeder ramp, and Chicago is suddenly half a world away.

Gorgeous dark woods contrast nicely with bamboo wall treatments while the subdued lighting and white linen tablecloths lend an air of elegance to the surprisingly large dining area. Service is efficient, polished and knowledgeable. Each server that attended to our table was able to explain each dish reverently, but without a hint of pretension.

Ai is Japanese for “love” and the restaurant’s owners, Eugene and Agnes Chua, must love the restaurant business because Ai is their third place in Chicago. Their other places are Tsuki—the West Fullerton location is about as upscale as Ai, but with a bit of a funkier vibe—and Ringo in Lincoln Park, the budget place, featuring an all-you-can-eat Monday night deal for $20. It’s not easy to juggle so many dishes, but they seem to do it well.

We began our meal with the excellent cream of corn soup topped with chives and then shared an order of the traditional spinach dish, gomae. All the gomae I’ve had in the past pales in comparison to Ai’s version. The dish is served warm instead of chilled and the sesame dressing adds a delicious pungency that wakes up your taste buds for the next course.

We went wild with the signature maki, and although the opportunity to try the exotic blowfish tempted us, we passed.  Many of the signature maki are vegetarian or contain cooked fish, which was perfect for my spouse. For example, the Chef Hemmi Maki Roll features a variety of minced veggies combined with mango, endive, avocado and nori paste rolled in rice and topped with cucumber slices. My favorite maki, the soft shell “Volcano,” combines a generous portion of the tempura-fried shellfish and cucumber, avocado and additional crab meat surrounded by rice. The legs of the crab extend beyond the roll giving the end slices the appearance of an erupting volcano.

Some of the rolls infuse influences from other cultures in their creation. Madai Ceviche Roll adds cilantro and tender ceviche to the mix, while the Rainbow Roll adds spicy tuna, pistachios, bits of rosemary and pine nuts to the mix. Nigiri, a sort of a single-sized serving, features slices of fish served atop a small portion of rice instead of being rolled. The generous portions of sashimi and prepared fish made this dish even more of a treat.

We’d already ordered our entrees, but we actually had reached our capacity. We were just going to take a bite and then bring the rest home. However, the entrees were so good, we ate a bit more than just a taste. Udon, a soup with thick noodles and vegetables supporting a piece of grilled fish, is perfect comfort food. I ordered the lobster salad for my entrée and had quite the feast. One half of a large lobster arrived, perfectly cooked and chilled. Accompanying the crustacean were slices of white fish and salmon roe, all perched upon a bed of greens tossed with a light shiso dressing.

A variety of imported beers, exotic cocktails and an expansive wine list offer the perfect accompaniment to your meal. Desserts are limited to mochi and green tea ice cream, but I doubt you’ll have room for any.

           

The Bottom Line: An appetizer, a couple of make rolls and an entrée will run about $50 with a drink, tax and tip included.