By Rick Karlin

Contributing writer

Taste of Heaven
5401 N. Clark
(773) 989-0151

Dan McCauley, the owner/operator of Taste of Heaven, has been a familiar face in Andersonville for a number of years. He originally opened his bakery on Foster just west of Ashland, long before that area became hip. A few years ago, he moved to Clark Street in Andersonville and has seen the neighborhood’s evolution first hand. He made national headlines a few years ago when he put up a sign stating that he expected children to behave in his store. Some of the yuppie princesses took offense, but many more of his loyal customers stood by his side and his business thrived.

I’ve been hesitant to do an out and out review of Taste of Heaven because Dan and I have a history. I’ve known Dan since he was a teenager and was a waiter at the original Leona’s. I was a regular customer of his and, over the years, a friendship has developed. So, putting those cards on the table, I’d like to state that I am a big fan of his. Not only because his café churns out delightful dishes, but for his commitment to his principles. He could have backed down when those spoiled brats (and by spoiled brats, I mean the mothers of the little rugrats) raised a stink.

All that said, I’ve only recently begun having meals at Taste of Heaven. I’m already addicted to the scones and figured I didn’t need to develop a fondness for other fattening goodies. Well, we were out the other day running errands and decided to stop for a late breakfast. Since then, I’ve been back for three other meals this week. And while the service can be a little haphazard, the food has never been anything less than fabulous.

I’ve never been much of a breakfast meal kind of guy, but the Silverland Breakfast at Taste of Heaven has converted me. Two large cornmeal biscuits are topped with a whole mess of scrambled eggs and smothered in savory, red-eye sausage gravy. The gravy’s got just enough kick to contrast nicely with the slight sweetness of the biscuits, which in turn, are substantial enough not to turn soggy under the gravy. If you like your eggs a little runnier, make certain to mention that because otherwise they come scrambled hard.

For those with a sweet tooth, the peaches and cream French toast is a treasure. Two thick and moist slices of bread are topped by peach compote and mounded with a sweetened whipped cream cheese topping. For something similar in pancakes, try the Katie Cakes, layered with raspberry, blackberry and blueberry compote, flavored with just a hint of clove and lemon, then topped with the same sweet cream cheese. Caramelized apples get a similar treatment over French toast.

Dinners offer interesting twists on comfort food. Braised brisket is augmented with port wine and cherries and is served with blue cheese scalloped potatoes and sweet and sour red cabbage. The roast pork tenderloin with sautéed apples and bread stuffing and meatloaf served with mashed potatoes and mushroom gravy are better than my grandmother’s (sorry Grams), while the jambalaya and lasagna offer ethnic comfort fare. Those seeking lighter meals are certain to be pleased by the Nicoise, grilled skirt steak or Caesar salads. Sandwiches and wraps are a great deal, with generous servings all priced less than $10. My favorite is the Brown Derby, a complete Thanksgiving meal (turkey breast, cranberry relish, stuffing and sweet potato puree in a whole-wheat wrap.

Desserts are plentiful and delish; it is a bakery café, after all. Any of the layer cakes are a treat, but my favorite is the apricot rugelah.

The Bottom Line: Breakfast runs about $10-$12, tax and tip included. Dinner entrees average $10; add a house salad or dessert and you’ll get away for less than $20 a person, including tax and tip.