Sabatino’s
4441 W. Irving Park
(773) 283-8331

By Rick Karlin

Contributing writer

With “The Sopranos” off the air, I really miss getting my weekly dose of Italian stereotypes. So we headed out west on Irving Park Road to a place that’s been around for more than 25 years and hasn’t changed one bit. Step inside Sabatino’s and you can picture Tony and Carmella sharing that last order of onion rings, if this classic Italian spot served onion rings. Calamari rings, maybe, onions, no.

However, you can get just about any traditional Italian fare. Among some of the regular menu items are lobster al diavolo, chicken toscana, veal parmigiana, pepper steak and chicken Sabatino (with artichokes in white wine sauce.) In addition to Italian fare, many other classic dishes are prepared—sometimes with an Italian accent, sometimes in the classic style—including seafood such as broiled red snapper and broiled English dover sole. Shrimp is always very fresh.

Sabatino’s prime N.Y. strip is simply broiled to order with the addition of salt and pepper. It doesn’t need any gussying up. Neither do the filet mignon, baby back ribs or pork tenderloin.

Adding to the old school feel is the piano bar to the right of the entrance. Cushy vinyl chairs, made for those who plan to sit for a while, line the bar in the dark and smoky room. The tuxedo-clad maitre d’ ushers diners to their tables in one of three dining rooms. The first, resembling a tacky outdoor garden, complete with statuettes and white lights, is crowded and noisy. You are better off to ask for the back dining room, where private alcoves are reserved for couples, or the brighter third room which features several large round tables perfect for group dining. If the recorded music of classic Italian crooners, such as Vic Damone, Tony Bennett, Tony Martin and Frank Sinatra, pleases you, you’ll cream over the strolling violinists, who serenade lovers upon request.

Angelo Pagni, who owns the restaurant with his brother Enzo, said Sabatino’s is popular in the neighborhood for a lot of reasons—food and atmosphere chief among them.

“You can ask 10 different people what they like about it and get nine different answers,” he said.

In addition to the atmosphere I bet some of the other draws include the friendly professional waitresses, well-prepared food, large servings and reasonable prices (all entrees also include soup and salad). What is not a draw and the only weak spot on the menu are the desserts, which all taste pre-packaged.

The Bottom Line: A three-course dinner with a drink runs about $25 (tax and tip included.)