Wilde
3130 N. Broadway
(773) 244-0404

By Rick Karlin

Contributing writer

Irish is the new Latin. At least it would seem that way judging by dining establishments in Chicago. A decade ago, a spate of restaurants opened featuring Latin or Latin-fusion cuisine. Now we’re seeing more places featuring food from the Emerald Isle. Mrs. Murphy and Sons in Lincoln Square, Kerryman’s in River North, the soon to be opened Wilde Pug in Uptown and, most recently, Wilde in Lakeview.

Martin Cournane, one of the owners of Wilde says he’s going for “a double connotation” with the bar’s name. He stresses that Wilde is not a gay bar, but will definitely be “gay-friendly” as well as “family-friendly.” (What, we can’t be both?) Judging by the crowd on the eatery’s first Saturday night, it looks like they’ll manage to accomplish that goal.

We stopped in at about 8:15 and waited 45 minutes for a table. We didn’t mind, as we snagged a couple of seats in front of the cozy fireplace and sipped from glasses of a most excellent sauvignon blanc. The wine, priced at $5.50 a glass, was one of the best I’ve had for the price. The bartender charged us almost double that amount at first. When I pointed out the error, he consulted the wine list and gave us back the difference. However, when we ordered a second glass, the pour was much skimpier. We’ll put that down to an opening week hiccup, unless it happens on a return visit.

And there will be a return visit. The service, while a bit under-trained, was friendly and efficient. The food is not only terrific, but the portions are huge. We split an appetizer and each had an entrée, and we couldn’t even consider dessert, tempting though the selections were. Clearly chef Alan Katz, formerly of Blue Mesa and Cullen’s, has gone to great lengths to make certain each dish is a winner.

After those two glasses of wine on an empty stomach, we decided to split the artichoke and cheddar cheese dip, as we thought it would arrive quickly, which it did. A half-pint or so serving of the hot dip arrived surrounded by toasted French bread on a large platter. If we weren’t so ravenous, this dish would have easily served four. The main difference between this ubiquitous dish and others I’ve sampled was that everything in Wilde’s version tasted garden-fresh. It bore none of the briny under-taste that usually dogs this dish. It also served to absorb the wine in our system.

It’s an Irish place, right? So we had to sample the fish and chips, but there are plenty of other Irish specialties. Corned beef and cabbage, an Irish breakfast with bangers and mash (served all day) and shepherd's pie are just a few examples of traditional Irish fare. There are also plenty of comfort food entrees, such as the meat loaf with mashed potatoes we ordered. The fish was coated in a flaky breading without the least trace of oil. The cod inside was fresh and perfectly prepared. Crispy fries and a side of slaw rounded out the plate. The equivalent of a half meat loaf leaned against a mountain of fresh mashed taters. The crusty outer layer of the ground beef and lamb mixture gave way to the tender and flavorful center. Brown gravy, better than grandma’s, crowned the towering serving.

The décor is so picture perfect that if it weren’t for the size of the space you’d swear you were in an Irish pub. The designers have managed to break the area up into little mini-rooms that flow seamlessly from one to another. Dark wood, tile and stained glass predominate. The lounge area near the front offers tables grouped around the fireplace, while farther back there’s an area that evokes the classic country squire’s library. Two bars offer plenty of space to wait for your table.

The customer base when we arrived seemed to be a mix of older neighborhood couples and families. As the evening progressed the crowd turned into one of younger couples and groups, with a fair representation of the GLBT community. If there’s one drawback, it would have to be the music. Not only is it an odd mix of Lite radio, standards and urban soundtracks, the volume is too loud. That may work for the late night vibe, but I’m betting that those dining earlier in the evening would appreciate it being a little quieter.

The Bottom Line; A three-course meal with a glass of wine runs about $30 per person.